编辑：任洁涵
海报：罗在实
形式到内涵 | 讲座 — 首饰设计的教学与实践
From Form to Content —
Teaching and Practice of Jewellery Design
以意赋形 | 工作坊 — 情感化首饰创作工作坊
Endow Shapes with Meanings –
Creative Workshop on Making Emotional Jewellery
日期 / Date
2019年11月3日
3rd November, 2019
时间安排 / Schedule
讲座：10:00 — 12:00
工作坊：13:00 —17:00
Lecture: 10:00 —12:00
Workshop: 13:00 —17:00
活动地点 / Location
NoCC Space 当代首饰与新文化中心
铁岭路115号 同济大学设计创意学院四平空间
NoCC Space,
No 115, Tie Ling Road. D&I Tong Ji University
导师 / Lecture
胡好 Hu Hao
同济大学设计创意学院 访问学者
Tongji University College of Design and Innovation
Visiting scholar
广州美术学院 讲师
Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts
Lecturer
授课语言 / Language
中文
Chinese
关于导师 / About the Lecturer
胡好
Hu Hao
胡好老师毕业于广州美术学院，2011年留校任教至今。现为广美工业设计学院文化与社会创新教研中心专业教师，主要担任产品设计、首饰设计相关专业课程教学工作，致力于教书育人的同时从事产品、首饰、平面等多领域设计实践活动，擅长将高技术与手工艺有机整合，表达首饰的文化属性及地域特点。
Hu Hao graduated from the Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts (GAFA) and has been a faculty member there since 2011. Now, she works for the Teaching and Research Center of Cultural and Social Innovation under the School of Innovation Design, GAFA. She is mainly engaged in teaching product design and jewellery design courses while practicing product, jewellery, and graphic design. She is adept at integrating high-tech and handicraft to create jewellery with distinctive cultural features and local styles.
此次讲座，她将分享多年来的教学与实践成果，阐述在华南地区首饰产业化程度极高的背景下，思考与探索首饰设计人才培养的经历。在个人创作实践方面，她试图用作品表达首饰的精神内涵，注重个性呈现。在她看来，物化的首饰，可以诉说故事，凝结记忆；通过有形的外在，构建无形的关系。形态、材料、技术，不仅仅在于表达美丑，衡量固有价值，更重要的是在创造与使用的过程中，记录了人生经历、亲密关系，自我期待与暗示。
In this lecture, Ms. Hu will share her multi-year teaching and practical results and discuss her experience in training jewellery designers against the backdrop of highly specialized development of the jewellery industry in Southern China. She values the meaning and individuality of each piece of jewellery during her creative practice. From her point of view, although jewellery items are objects, they contain stories and memories. Through visible jewellery items, we are able to feel invisible emotions. Jewellery’s shapes, materials, and related techniques are not only an expression of beauty and a measurement of fixed values, but also a record of life experiences, relationships with beloved ones, self-expectations and implications for their creators and wearers.
关于教学研究 / Teaching and Research
“形色奏鸣曲-康定斯基艺术衍生饰品设计”
Formal sonata-Kandinsky Art Derivative Jewelry
作者：赖梦云
Maker：Lai Mengyun
指导教师：胡好、庄嘉菁、冯树
Mentor: Hu Hao, Zhuang Jiajing, Feng Shu
“冰与火”
Ice and fire
作者：孙明帅
Maker:Sun Mingshuai
指导教师：胡好、庄嘉菁、王柳庄、冯树
Mentor: Hu Hao, Zhuang Jiajing, Feng Shu
“千假面-潮汕英歌舞衍生当代饰品设计”
Ten thousand faces
作者：林泽佳
Maker: Lin Zejia
指导老师：胡好、庄嘉菁、王柳庄、冯树
Mentor: Hu Hao, Zhuang Jiajing, Wang Liuzhuang, Feng Shu
课题一
Topic 1
参数化设计在首饰个性化定制服务中的应用研究
Parametric Design and Custom Jewellery
胡好老师近年来的研究课题之一，聚焦于高技术手段在首饰个性化定制服务中的应用，由3d打印技术、参数化设计等手段，带来的一系列从形式风格，到设计思维与方法的变革。在造型语言极大丰富的基础上，探寻其承载文化内涵的可能性，为首饰个性化呈现提供新的思路与面貌。
In recent years, Ms. Hu has conducted research on the use of high technology in custom jewellery. She applies 3D printing technology and parametric design to reform the format, style, logic and methods of her design. With various molding languages at hand, she tries to include more cultural elements in custom jewellery so as to bring new life to her designs.
“螭龙新生赋—传统文化符号下的参数化再现设计”
Chi-Dragon Rises Again
作者：萧逸婷
Maker: Xiao Yiting
指导老师：胡好、庄嘉菁、王柳庄、冯树
Mentor: Hu Hao, Zhuang Jiajing, Wang Liuzhuang, Feng Shu
"Dancing Pipe"
作者：陈丽
Maker: Chen Li
指导老师：胡好、庄嘉菁、王柳庄、冯树
Mentor: Hu Hao, Zhuang Jiajing, Wang Liuzhuang, Feng Shu
课题二
Topic 2
叙事性首饰创作与个性化定制研究
Story-telling and Custom Jewellery
本课题在当下首饰产业满足一般消费者搭配不同风格服装与场景的装饰功能需求的前提下，从自我表达、情感与人生经历记录的角度研究消费者对首饰的心理需求，通过个性化叙事性主题教学与创作实践，探索首饰定制设计的方法。
This research studies customers’ emotional needs for jewellery. While most customers purchase jewellery to decorate themselves on various occasions, some buy jewellery to keep their memories, express their feelings, and record their lives. A story-telling teaching and practicing method is adopted to explore ways of customizing jewellery.
“甜蜜的入侵者”
A Sweet Intruder
胸针
Brooch
作者：胡好
Maker: Hu Hao
“望尘而莫及”
Distance
作者：陈琪婷
Maker: Chen Qiting
指导老师：胡好、庄嘉菁、王柳庄、冯树
Mentor: Hu Hao, Zhuang Jiajing, Wang Liuzhuang, Feng Shu
“释”
Let It Go
作者：张妍
Maker: Zhang Yan
指导老师：
胡好、庄嘉菁、王柳庄、张硕、陈小文
Mentor: Hu Hao, Zhuang Jiajing, Wang Liuzhuang, Zhang Shuo, Chen Xiaowen
关于个人创作 / About the Works of Ms.Hu
“HULU主题系列首饰”
HULU Series
“第8个HULU”
The 8th HULU
项链，胸针
Necklace, brooch
“HULU离开我”
HULU left me
胸针
Brooch
葫芦（HULU），可以被塑形。明清两代以来，国人把小葫芦装在模具（范）里，塑成四方体、八棱形，赋有美好寓意的传统故事都可“生长”出来；用绳子勒扎小葫芦，长成后可得到形态各异的扭曲造型。国人的审美趣味如此，闲情逸致如此。（详见《说葫芦》王世襄 著）
Hulu, or calabash, can be shaped. In the Ming (1368 to 1644 A.D.) and Qing (1636 to 1911 A.D.) dynasties, Chinese craftsmen would put young calabash gourds into molds and form them in the shape of a cube or an octahedron or “grow” into any character in traditional Chinese stories. Another way of creating calabashes of various shapes is using ropes to tighten young gourds. For Chinese, shaping hulu is a pleasure, and hulus of different shapes are delightful to see. (For details, please see Talking about Hulu written by Wang Shixiang)
葫芦，也是我的大儿子，出生前，早早给他想好小名，先生姓卢，我姓胡，凑一起，就是葫芦。自从他来了我们家，葫芦就承包了我的灵感来源。我们家的葫芦，尚未成型。在他出生之前，我从未意识到，自己会变成那件模具、那根绳子。巧的是，我本就是个造型者（设计师），正教导后辈如何造型（教师）。我力所能及的，恰恰是将无形化为有形。葫芦的造型实验，糅合了太多关于个人想表达的思考与经历，谨以此为意向符号，记录不同阶段的所思所想。
My first son’s nickname is Hulu, too. Before his birth, my husband and I decided to give him this nickname because my husband’s surname is Lu and mine is Hu, which are combined into a new word “Hulu”. My son has been my source of inspiration after he become a part of our family. He is just like an unformed hulu. I didn’t realize that I would be the mold or the rope to shape him after his birth. However, since I am a designer and a mentor, creating shapes is my strength. As a molding experiment, the HULU series is a mixture of my personal thoughts and experiences, recording how I think in different life stages.
“天生万物”
The Universe Creates Everything
从宇宙宏大而虚无的视角出发，
寻求纵横交错的理性内核。
在人类如星尘的微弱生命中，
探索精神意识的所在。
Find the truth of rational thinking from the vast universe.
Although our lives seem as ordinary
and insignificant as distant stars,
we should explore the beauty of our thoughts.
“天生万物”
The Universe Creates Everything
胸针 Brooch
锌合金、亚克力、尼龙弹力绳、
弹力网纱、人造水晶
Zinc alloy, acrylic, nylon elastic rope, elastic mesh, artificial crystal
88 x 25 x 28 mm
2011
“天生万物”
The Universe Creates Everything
戒指 Ring
锌合金、亚克力、尼龙弹力绳、
弹力网纱、人造水晶
Zinc alloy, acrylic, nylon elastic rope, elastic mesh, artificial crystal
88 x 25 x 28 mm
2011
讲座中的教学实践成果及个人创作作品将于当天现场展出。
Teaching results and designs introduced in the lecture will be exhibited on the same day.
关于工作坊 / About Workshop
以意赋形 — 情感化首饰创作工作坊
Endow Shapes with Meanings –
Creative Workshop on Making Emotional Jewellery
胡好老师将指导各位学员，从特定人、事、物，个人经历及个性表达等方面，寻找创作主题与故事，在艺术家风格的创作启发下，结合老师设计的一系列情绪板，通过形态、色彩、材质、肌理、构造来表达主题，运用亚克力、热缩片、水晶、首饰金属配件等材料，亲手制作属于自己的定制化首饰作品，并提供衍生设计服务。
In this workshop, Ms. Hu will instruct you how to find project themes and the stories behind them. With the support from a range of mood boards provided by the instructor, you will be inspired to express different themes through shapes, colours, materials, textures and structures, and use acrylic, heat shrinkable film, crystal, and metal accessories to make your own personalized jewellery. You are also entitled to enjoy generative design service.
人数限定 / Quota
20人
（满6人开课，11月1日报名截止）
20 people
(The class requires at least 6 participants.
The application deadline is 1 November)
年龄 / Age
14+
收费标准 / Cost
大众：200/1天
学生：180/1天
（需提供有效学生证号）
General: ?200 /day
Student: ?180/day
(Student ID number is required)
*本次工作坊报名者需全程参与
*Participants are required to take part in all sessions
瓦西里·康定斯基 绘画作品
Wassily Kandinsky's Painting
亨利?马蒂斯 剪纸作品
Henri Matisse's paper cutting works
巴勃罗?毕加索 "格尔尼卡"
"Guernica" by Pablo Picasso
Pantone色彩情绪版
Pantone colour moodboard
制作过程
Production process
胡老师为工作坊设计的情绪模板
Moodboard designed by Ms.Hu for workshops
关于NoCC / 当代首饰与新文化中心
当代首饰与新文化中心 ( The New Center of Contemporary Jewellery and Fashion Culture，简称：NoCC ) ，作为由国家级特聘专家牵头的高层次文教研相结合的机构， 是目前唯一以“大时尚”为背景， “设计+” 与 “艺术+” 为驱动，首饰与相关时尚的实践、研究、文化与策划管理为主线展开，以 “创新领袖" （Creative Leadership）为导向的多功能国际/国内合作发展平台。
NoCC中心目前位于同济大学四平空间内，协同学院首饰实验室 (JAlab）和玻璃实验室等教学实践基地，2016年成立以来，积极拓展与其它高端文/教/产/研机构的合作和发展，成功完成了一系列具有重要影响力的项目。超过20个国家的50多位国际/国内学者嘉宾受邀NoCC中心组织的讲座、工作坊、论坛；超过了34个国家600多位国际艺术家与设计师参加过NoCC组织的展览与出版物。重要的大型项目包括 ”HD超日常国际当代首饰高峰论坛“ （2016）， “中国-瑞士一流学府设计交流大展“ （2018）， " TRIPLE PARADE 第四届国际当代首饰双年展“ （2018）， ” WoSoF首届全球时尚与首饰创新设计论坛“ （2018）， “纽约设计周大展” （2019）等等。
同济大学设计创意学院，已成为国内最具国际声誉的设计学院之一， 跻身世界著名设计学院行列。同济大学是教育部直属“双一流”高校，设计学为“一流学科”，艺术与设计学科2020年全球QS大学排名第14位，位居亚洲之首。
The New Center of Contemporary Jewellery and Fashion Culture (NoCC). Led by state-level experts, the New Center of Contemporary Jewellery and Fashion Culture (NoCC) is a premium institute of culture, education and research. As the only one of its kind in China driven by the concepts of "design +" and "art +" amidst the ever-popular fashion culture, this multifunctional platform, featuring international and domestic cooperation, is dedicated to the practice, research, culture, planning and management of jewellery and other fashion types, focusing on cultivating "Creative Leadership"
Established in 2016, NoCC is an educational practice platform housed in the SPace of Tongji University together with JALAB and Glass Art Laboratory. In cooperation with other advanced cultural, educational, industry and research institutes, NoCC has completed a series of important projects. Over 50 international and domestic scholars from more than 20 countries have been invited to lectures, workshops and forums organized by the Center, while over 600 artists and designers from more than 34 countries have contributed to NoCC’s exhibitions and publications. The major projects it has involved in include the "Hyper-daily-Towards Contemporaneity" International Contemporary Jewellery Symposium (2016), the Sino-Swiss Contemporary Jewellery eand Accessory Design Exhibition (2018), the 4th TRIPLE PARADE Biennale for Contemporary Jewellery (2018), the 1st World Symposium Forum for Fashion, Jewellery and Accessories (2018), and the exhibition during the NYCxDesign (2019).
The College of Design and Innovation, Tongji University, has become one of the most prominent design colleges in China with international presence, on a par with other renowned design colleges in the world. As a "Double First-class" university directly under the Ministry of Education, Tongji University boasts Design as one of its first-class disciplines, ranking 14th in the list of "QS World University Rankings by Subject 2020: Art & Design", the top one in Asia.
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Scan and Follow NoCC official account，
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Scan and register from here ↓
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付款请备注姓名；无故不参加工坊者，订金不予返还。
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